cart Shopping Cart CART(0)

Eunice Taylors' guide to ordering lamps

When ordering your shades, we know how tricky it is so please feel free to contact us for help but before you do, here’s a check list for you:
 
1/         What is styrene?
Styrene is a plastic sheet that is glued and bonded to the material used for the lampshade.  It keeps the shape of the shade and joins the top and bottom rings together.  A full frame does not need a laminated styrene backing because it will keep its shape.  Styrene can be either white, opaque or clear depending on what effect you would like to achieve – white being more solid, opaque being a little softer and clear see through.
 
2/         What shape Lamp Shade do I want? 
Remember the more basic the shape of the body of the lamp, the more varied styles of shade itcan take. Try to repeat the shapes in the lamp body in the shade shape. Make sure the diameter of the bottom of the shade is not greater that the height of the lamp body.
 
The most popular shapes are…..
Round i.e. a Drum or Tapered Drum (Empire)
Oval or Tapered Oval
Square or Tapered Square or
Oblong i.e. Rectangle or Tapered Oblong
 
3/         What is a Stretch Lamp Shade?  
There are many styles of Stretch Shade dating back in history but the most well-known are “Waisted” Shades eg Regency, Rimini with or without Panel, Tulip, Victoriana, Pagoda,
Dynasty and Dr Seuss.  Non waisted Stretch Shades are the Tiffany (with or without Crown) and Viceroy.  Stretch Lampshades do not need Styrene to hold their shape but do have panels of fabric that are glued
onto the frame instead and then trimmed to tidy.  You’ll be able to find images on our Website.
 
4/         What other Lampshades do not need a Styrene backing?
Other popular styles are Pleated shades – either Box or Knife.  Ribbon shades wrap ribbon around the frame and gathered shades use a gathered fabric.
 
5/         How do I measure a Lampshade?
Generally we measure lampshades in Imperial but you can provide the metric equivalent. Remember – ALWAYS MEASURE THE TOP FIRST, then the Bottom, then the Height.
  
Here’s a quick table for measuring:
 
Drum shades – measure top, bottom, and then the height - bottom to top (height)
Empire shades - as above
Oval shade – measure top width, top depth and height
Tapered oval – measure top width and depth, bottom width and depth and height
Square – measure top width, top depth and height
Tapered Square - measure top width and depth, bottom width and depth and height
Oblong - measure top width, top depth and height
Tapered Oblong - measure top width and depth, bottom width and depth and height
Waisted shades – start with the base diameter in imperial and we’ll help you work out the rest!
 
6/         What Lamp holder do I specify?
As most of our frames attach to the lamp holder you need to know what bulb is going to fit so we can provide the right sized ring.  The larger ring is an E27 or ES Edison Screw Bulb and the
smaller ring is for the BC B22 Bayonet Bulb.  When in doubt, order the larger E27 fitting and ask for a Shade reducer which is a little Plastic clip that reduces the size of the ring.
 
7/         What options are there for the Lamp shade fitting?
The shade can be manufactured with a base fitting or a well fitting.  A base fitting has the supporting struts at the base and the well fitting extends down from the top.  Be aware, Parchments and some Fabrics when illuminated can throw a Shadow, so if in doubt, order a base fitting.  Pendants always have a Top fitting otherwise they will hang upside down!
 
8/         My Lamp shade does not attach to the lamp holder and what would that fitting be called?
Scandinavian Lamp Shades sit on a round “cradle” at the top of the shade and American Harp Fittings work with a Harp and Finial with washers.  There are many different size of washer
so you will need to measure these as well.  Lampshades that do not attach to the lamp holdergive the impression of “floating”.
 
9/         What recess shall I specify?
Lamp shades are usually recessed 40mm up from the base. The amount of recess will determine where the shade sits on the base.  Most Lampshades will sit in exactly the right position but some need to sit a little higher or a little lower to look balanced.  To measure the recess required, hold your lampshade in the correct position and measure how much higher or lower the fitting needs to sit - this measurement will then either need to be added to or subtracted from 40mm.  Remember, the higher the shade goes, the smaller its recess and vice versa.
 
10/       What colour should I have the frame powder coated?
Choose from White, Black, Gold or Silver.  Other colours are possible but there will be an additional charge.  If you are lining your shade the frame should match this colour where possible.
 
11/       What Fabric should I choose?
That is entirely up to you depending on your client’s preference and décor.  Some people like a simple, sophisticated hand rolled shade, others like ornate, colourful, or patterned shades with trims and embellishments. You can match the lampshade colour to the colour in your room and tones in the lamp body.  Don’t be afraid to use black or colour as an accent. Consider the style of the lamp when selecting fabric a busy lamp generally calls for a plainer shade.  For Drama think outside the box!
 
Laminated shades (eg Drum and Empire) are easy to work with but do think about what direction you would like the fabric or Wallpaper to run – vertical or horizontal? The same is true for stripes – which direction do you want them to run? And be aware that some patterns can look odd when tapering around to a back seam as they do with Empire Shades.  Oblong and Square shades have corners to work with and some wall papers do not like being folded.  Stretch shades must have fabrics that stretch and we recommend Silk cut on the cross.  
 
12/       How are the Fabrics priced in the Swatching Kit?
Our fabrics are coded in price points where PL is the cheapest because it is laminated elsewhere saving on Labour costs, PP1 is the next most cost effective (eg Chintz’s, Parchments, Timber Veneer and Solo Linen), PP2 are more expensive - Silks, Linens, Wallpapers, Raffia’s and new season’s fabrics whilst PP3 are Designer Fabrics from elite Fabric houses.
 
13/       What is the difference between Hand loomed HL and Machine Loomed ML Silk?
Most of our silks are hand loomed which means they are loomed by hand making them look and feel “slubby”.   Machine loomed silks are machine loomed making them a lot finer in texture.
 
14/       What lining should I choose?
We recommend lining our stretch shades and use a very fine lingerie fabric which comes in a variety of colours to do this.  Laminated shades don’t need to be lined but they do look amazing with a contrast fabric or paper particularly if you can see inside.  There is extra work to line your shade so we do need to charge an extra 15%.
 
15/       What trim shall I use?
If you have chosen a prelaminated fabric, Raffia, Parchment, or Timber Veneer we must trim the shade top and bottom to cover the “raw” edge.  Choose either a matching fabric or a contrast fabric which is applied at no extra cost.  Shades made from any other fabric (Chintz, Silk, Linen etc) are able to be handrolled and don’t need to be trimmed unless this is a detail you would like.  Trim in the same or a contrasting fabric either top and bottom or bottom only. 
 
A double self trim is two layers of trim where one is different and may include piping or cord.  A double self trim can be applied top and bottom or just the bottom and is charged at an additional cost.
 
Fancy Cords and Leather thonging are also an option and will attract an additional 30% to cover the cost and time involved.  Thonging is where we stitch leather around the edge of the shade
and gives an even greater sense of handmade.
 
Happy Shades!